| Metals,
Sterling Silver
Silver comes to us from Antiquity. It is considered one of
the precious metals along with gold and platinum. Silver is a brilliant
white metal. It is the best conductor of heat and electricity.
Silver comes in many purities. Silver
in its commercially purest form is called 5-nines silver or fine silver.
The 5-nines refers to the 5 nines in 99.999% pure. All silver alloys are
made from fine silver.
Sterling silver, the best known alloy of silver, is 92.5 k fine silver
and 7.5% copper, by definition. The addition of copper to fine silver
makes it more durable and lasting. Sterling silver is used widely for
jewelry and elegant flatware.
Sterling silver will slowly tarnish
when exposed to air and moisture. The small amount of copper in the
sterling silver alloy is principally responsible for the tarnish. Pure
silver tarnishes very little, but is too soft for jewelry without being
alloyed.
During wear sterling silver will
attain its natural patina finish, however it some times will turn black is
one eat's alot of egg products due to the sulfur in the body.
Coin silver is another common alloy of
silver. Its usual alloy is 90% fine silver and 10% copper, although
additional metals may be present in the alloy. Coin silver-tarnishes
easier than sterling silver. However, the constant use of coins kept them
clean of tarnish with a beautiful patina finish. The United States has not
used coin silver for many years; and all the U.S. silver coins
have been slowly removed from circulation.
Many people ask where the silver we
use comes from. It is a multi-step process from the ordering of silver to
the point where it is delivered, processed and formed.
Fine silver, 99.999% pure is first
purchased on the commodities market. It is delivered to an alloy house
which adds copper, alloying it into sterling silver, 92.5% silver and 7.5%
copper.
The refined alloy is then delivered to
a forming house, which will make sterling strip, sheet or wire for our die
striking operation; or the forming house will make sterling casting grain
which is used in lost wax casting operation.
An interesting side note to the
preceding steps is each process adds 8-10% to the cost per ounce for the
silver.
The daily price for silver usually
quoted each day in the financial news is the 5000 oz. price for fine
silver before it is alloyed and formed. The actual cost per ounce for
sterling silver is 20% to 25% higher than the daily quoted price due to
alloying and forming changes.
Since the silver is purchased on the
open commodity market, one cannot be sure of the actual source of the new
silver. However, one can be reasonably sure that a percentage of it is
from reclaimed and recycled sources. The delivery of the formed sterling
silver is done by common carrier, such as UPS.
Gold
Gold has been sought after and
treasured since ancient times. The Egyptians of Antiquity mined, refined
and fashioned gold into jewelry and other items of wealth and status.
These earliest mines appear in ancient Nubia with the earliest records
dating from 3500 BC
Gold quality is measured in units call
karats. Karats refer to the fractional parts of pure gold in the total
alloy. Pure gold is 24K. The quality expression is always in karats: such
as 10K, 12K, 14K or 18K. This literally means 10/24ths, 12/24ths, 14/24ths
or 18/24ths fractional parts of gold. The resulting numbers are 42% fine
gold in 10K gold, 50% fine gold in 12K gold, 58% fine gold in 14K gold and
75% fine gold in 18K gold. The remaining parts are alloy metals to make it
harder and more durable.
Pure gold will not tarnish. However,
lower karat alloys can tarnish in certain conditions, but tarnish will be
slight to non- existent in 12K and higher alloys. The wearing of gold
jewelry usually keeps it clean and bright.
Gold is alloyed to meet certain market
and engineering requirements. 18K gold is sold for greater quality and
gold content; while 10K gold is sold to meet markets that are more price
conscious or where greater durability is needed.
All yellow gold contains copper and
silver in its alloy. By varying the amounts of copper and silver, you can
get pink or green gold. The more copper in. the mix the pinker the gold,
the more silver, the greener the gold.
Many people ask where the gold
comes from. Just like silver, the gold, 99.999% pure is first
purchased on the commodities market. It is delivered to an alloy house
which adds the alloy to make it into gold karat, the amount of alloy
depends on the karat desired.
The refined alloy is then delivered to
a forming house, which will make gold strip, sheet or wire for our die
striking operation; or the forming house will make gold casting grain
which is used in our lost wax casting operation.
An interesting side note to the
preceding steps is each process adds a percentage to the cost per ounce
for the gold.
Since the gold is purchased on the
open commodity market one cannot be sure of the actual source of the raw
gold. However, one can be reasonably sure that a percentage of it is from
reclaimed and recycled sources.
Copper
Copper is the first metal early man
mastered for tool and weapon use. Copper is very soft and easily formed.
Despite being soft and easily bent,
metal tools made a gigantic leap in man’s technology. The discovery and
use of copper resulted in the beginning of the Bronze Age in man’s
history.
It is common knowledge that many
people believe copper relieves the pain and suffering of arthritis. More
often than not folklore is based in truth. However, it would be improper
for us to make these claims directly.
Remember, when you wear a copper
bracelet, they are guaranteed to turn your wrist green.
Pewter
Pewter (white metal) is a metal that
comes to us from the time period of the "Middle Ages" in Europe.
Originally pewter was an alloy made of varying amounts of tin, copper,
lead and antimony. Today, good pewter is made without adding lead and is
known as lead-free pewter. Pewter made with lead should not be
used for any type of cooking or any process that might be food related due
to the possiblilty of lead posining.
Pewter is very soft and easily bent.
This is the characteristic of this alloy of metals. During the Middle
Ages, it was primarily used for dinnerware, such as plates and drinking
vessels. Pewter had to be used for domestic household uses as it was much
too soft for weapons or farm tools.
Pewter can be cast very easily into
intricate objects. This makes it an ideal metal for jewelry items.
Highly polished pewter has a
blue-white color; but more often pewter is finished by electroplating in
gold or white.
Base Metals
Base metal is a jewelry term that
applies to the metals which are plated with any electroplated finish. It
is the "base" for a plated finish.
Base metals are usually steel, brass,
pewter or copper. These can be cast, die-struck or formed and then
electroplated to get the desired finish.
Base metal jewelry items are designed
to be inexpensive.
Electroplated
Finishes
Electroplated finishes are available
in many colors and compositions. The two most common colors in the jewelry
trade are gold and white. This exists to make inexpensive base metals look
like expensive metals, such as gold and silver.
Plated finishes are actual metal
layers that are deposited out of solution with the use of an electrical
current. The resulting layers are not very thick, but look like the real
thing.
Inexpensive jewerly uses plated
finishes on necklaces and earrings- where heavy wear isn’t present. A
plated finish is in appropriate for rings, because the heavy use will wear
through and destroy a plated finish.
STONES
Black Diamond
To ones surprise, the chemical
composition of black diamond is Fe, 02 or iron oxide or common rust. In
black diamond the rust is extremely compact and has a hardness of 6% to 7
on the mohs scale. Fortunately black diamond is extremely durable as a
gemstone in jewelry.
Black diamond is mined in England and
desired because of it’s mirror-like polish. Like diamond, it is faceted
to reflect light that strikes its brilliant surfaces. A magical stone, it
is thought to preserve life.
Black and White
Onyx
Black and white onyx is a stone first
popularized in the ancient Roman days. The ancients developed a method of
permanently coloring clean gray agate to a pure jet black color. This was
done to develop a quality black gemstone, there is no true black onyx. The
resulting onyx is actually a better than natural onyx since it is harder
and more enduring than the onyx one sees carved into little animals. Black
and white onyx is especially rare due to its characteristic white bands;.
The ancient black color contrasts with the distinctive white lines.
As a side note, if the white layers and lines were perfectly flat, this
material could be used for making cameos. Black and white onyx is a
refreshing gemstone from ancient times.
Blue Onyx
As with black onyx, blue onyx sold for
jewelry purposes is been used in jewelry for centuries.
The blue onyx is colored with a
secret process that takes three months to complete. The process involves
many steps and careful attention to detail. An expensive special agate
must be used to insure a pure color. This special agate is gray and free
from any naturally occurring coloration. The blue onyx produced is as
delightful as a summer sky.
Brazilian Agate
Brazilian agate is formed in the same
manner as all agate. Agate is a quartz mineral originally formed in the
bubbles within a volcanic lava bed. When lava is released from within the
earth, it contains dissolved gases. As the confining pressure decreases,
gas bubbles form in the viscous lava. The bubbles range from marble size
to several feet in diameter. Sometime later, hot hydrothermal water
solutions containing dissolved quartz percolate through the lava beds
filling the gas bubbles with liquid.
Changes in chemistry and temperatures
precipitate the dissolved quartz out of the solution lining the bubble
cavity with extremely fine layers of crypto-crystalline quartz.
Crypto-crystalline is ’defined as being formed of extremely fine
crystals; the crystal are so fine the agate acts as if it isn’t
crystalline. The fine needles of quartz have minute spaces between them
much like a sponge.
Since the quartz fills the cavity from
the outside in, the oldest layer is the outside and the youngest in the
center of the agate. The age of agate is 25-60 million years old. And
there is no real way of knowing how long it took to form a single agate,
but the time was probably lengthy. Since the layers are extremely thin,
fractions of a millimeter in thickness, it must have formed slowly.
Sometimes one can find a hollow agate with water on the inside. These are
called Anhydrous meaning "with water." This water most likely
millions of years old. After the agate is formed, it has the sponge
like porosity in the finely layered structure.
The natural coloration in agates are
caused primarily by difference compounds of iron and manganese The browns
and reds by iron and the blacks by manganese. These compounds get into the
agate with water born solutions that migrate through the sponge-like
porosity of the finely layered agate leaving the beautiful colors and
patterns you see.
Brazilian agate is mined from eroded
lava beds in the Brazil plateaus. This agate displays a rainbow of colors
primarily derived from iron. The colors are usually reds, browns end
yellows in multi-layered bands and plumes. Agate was known and used by the
ancients. They believed it had the power to drive away evil and bring good
luck.
Feather Stone
Feather stone characterizes the
coloring and pattered found in Mother Nature’s feathers. The stones that
make up, feather stone inlay are: Turquoise-the light blue, Jet-the black.
and Red Jasper-the dark red. The rental strips are a non- tarnishing base
metal. These stones are made of both natural and man-made materials. The
resulting stones are rich in pattern and color.
Goldstone
Goldstone is a man-made gemstone. It
has been around since the European renaissance and sells extremely well.
Goldstone is actually glass with
copper crystals in it. It is made from a brown glass in which copper oxide
is mixed. Upon cooling the copper oxide changes and turns into copper
crystals. The resulting glass is brown with tiny sparkling crystals of
copper. Goldstone is a most popular and attractive gemstone.
Green Jade
Two separate and distinct mineral
species make up what we call jade; jade can be either the mineral
species nephrite or the mineral jadeite, both are recognized as
jade. Jade is most recognized as being green; however, it is found and
sold in all the colors of the rainbow.
Jade is one of the most durable of all
gemstones; this is due to its inter-grown fibrous structure. Jade is not
extremely hard only 6-6% in mohs hardness; but it is TOUGH. In the field a
person can tell whether or not an unknown boulder is jade by hitting it
with your rock hammer; just don’t put your head in the path of the
hammer as it rebounds off the jade boulder like a super ball. Only jade
will make a hammer blow rebound so fiercely. Black jade is probably the
toughest of all jades. You can take a 4"x4" slab
black jade 3/16" thick and dropp on to a bare concrete floor
from six feet without breaking. It just bounces around. Jade is an
enduring gemstone.
Montana Agate
Montana Agate is a quartz mineral
originally formed in volcanic lava beds. When lava is released from within
the earth it contains dissolved gases. As the confining pressure
decreases, gas bubbles form in the viscous lava. The bubbles rangy from
marble size to several feet in diameter. Sometime later hot hydrothermal
water solutions containing dissolved quartz percolated through the lava
beds filling the gas bubbles with liquid.
Because of chemical and/or temperature
changes, the dissolved quartz precipitates out of solution lining the
bubble cavity with extremely fine layers of crypto-crystalline quartz.
Crypto-crystalline is defined as being formed of extremely fine crystals;
the crystals are so fine, the agate acts as if it isn’t crystalline. The
fine needles of quartz have minute spaces between them much like a sponge.
Since the quartz lines the cavity from
the outside in, the oldest layer is the outside and the youngest in the
center of the agate.: The age of agate is 25-60 million years old.
However, there no way of knowing how long it took to form individual
agates, but one can be assured it probably took a very long time. Since
the layers are extremely thin, fractions of a millimeter in thickness, it
must have formed slowly. Sometimes one can find a hollow agate with water
on the inside, these are called: Anhydrous meaning "with water."
This water is millions of year’s old. After the agate is formed, it
still has the sponge like porosity in the finely layered structure.
The coloration in agates are caused
primarily by different compounds of iron and manganese. The browns and
reds by iron and the blacks by manganese. These compounds get into
the agate by water born solutions that migrate through the:, sponge-like
porosity of the finely layered agate, leaving the beautiful colors
and pattern you see.
Mosaic
The stones that make up the Mosaic
Inlay are: Turquoise-the light blue, Lapis-the dark blue, Red Jasper-the
dark red, Melon Jasper-the yellow, Malachite-the green and Spiny
Oyster-the orange red. The metal strips are a non-tarnishing base metal.
These stones are made of both natural and man-made materials. The
resulting stones are bright and colorful.
Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl is the iridescent
shell lining of any pearl bearing clam or oyster, This lustrous gemstone
usually has the same composition and quality as the pearls produced by the
clam or oyster. The bright flashes of light are caused by light being
reflected from the many layers that make up the pearl lining of the shell.
Paua Shell
Paua shell comes from the shallow
coastal waters surrounding New Zealand. It is the shell from a pecice of
abalone with an extremely colorful shell. The shell is somewhat smaller
than that of its California coast cousin, but much more colorful.
Picture Jasper
Picture jasper is a natural gemstones
mined in eastern Oregon and western Idaho. These mines produce scenic
jasper with pictures that portray the mountains and waters where the rock
is mined. The beautiful and varying coloration are caused by chemical rich
volcanic waters slowly soaking through the then new rock formation. Legend
has it that picture jasper is supposed to bring on long and restful sleep.
Pink Shell
Pink shell comes from mussels that
live in the river beds of Oklahoma, Arkansas and Tennessee. The brilliant
flashes of color are caused by light being reflected from the many
layers that make up the lining of the shell.
Red Jasper
Red jasper is found in most parts of
the world ranging in size from small beach pebbles to massive solid
deposits. Some say it stimulates energy while battling diseases of the
blood and circulatory system. Ancients also believed that it could
detoxify organs of the blood cleaning system like the liver. Red Jasper
gets its red color from the oxides of iron in its crystal structure.
Snowflake
Obsidian
Obsidian is a naturally occurring
volcanic glass formed when hot lava cools extremely fast. The white
snowflakes in the black background are a rare form of high temperature
quartz that formed just before the rest of the lava cooled rapidly into
glass. Ancient civilizations chipped arrowheads and tools from obsidian as
it is easy to work. Some native cultures believe obsidian sharpens inner
and outer vision.
Tiger Eye
Found primarily in South Africa,
golden tiger eye is beautiful because of its always moving play of light.
As legend goes, tiger eye is capable of bringing immortality to the
wearer.
Turquoise
Turquoise is an extremely old
gemstone, dating back to ancient Egypt. Today, we are using turquoise from
the Tunnel mine, which is located on the Arizona-Mexico border. We are
only using the finest blue turquoise available.
To improve the beautiful wearability
of our turquoise, we stabilize the turquoise before cutting it. In the
stabilizing process a polyester resin penetrates porous uncut rough
turquoise to harden the turquoise and insure its beauty and durability. A
great thing about stabilized turquoise is it will never change color from
body oils and household cleaning products. Turquoise has been an important
gemstone to many cultures dating back from antiquity continuing through
the present in America.
|